How to plant, grow & care for lavender

Lavender is such a versatile plant – equally at home on a city balcony or in a country cottage garden. Wherever it is, it conjures thoughts of sun, summer and the south of France, helped of course by its heady fragrance. The leaves and flowers make an unusual aromatic addition to all sorts of dishes – it’s no wonder that the bees and the butterflies love it too. Best of all, it’s easy to care for and evergreen, so will look good in your garden all year round. To that end, we offer a range of sizes, from seeds and young plants in 9cm pots right up to 7l pots containing large, mature plants sure to make a statement.

Details Where & when to plant How to sow How to plant Care guide Pests, diseases & common issues Frequently asked questions

Details

Calendar

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Feb F

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Apr A

May M

Jun J

Jul J

Aug A

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Dec D

Sowing

Planting

Flowering

Where & when to plant

Where to plant

Soil type

Lavenders are Mediterranean plants which prefer dry, gritty and fairly poor lime/chalk soils. They won’t do well in heavy clay or acid soils (French lavender, Lavandula stoechas is the exception here), or soil which is prone to waterlogging, so avoid these areas or be sure to add lots of horticultural grit to your planting hole.

Aspect & position

Lavenders love a warm sunny spot where they are sheltered from the rain – at the foot of a wall or a fence is ideal. French lavenders are more sensitive to frost, so if planting these, place in a pot and bring it inside over winter.

When to plant

Plant lavender in spring once the soil has started to warm, or in September when the soil is still warm enough for the roots to establish before winter sets in. If growing from seed, sow seeds in early spring.

How to sow

In late February/early March (or 8-10 weeks before the last frost date in your area), sow your seeds in divided seed trays filled with peat-free compost and tamp down gently. Do not cover as they need light to germinate. Place in a warm, sunny spot, such as a south-facing windowsill. A heating mat set to 20C will help speed up germination. Germination can be erratic from seed, so if seedlings haven’t appeared after four weeks, move them to the fridge for four weeks, and then back into the warmth.

When you can see roots filling the bottom of the module, pot the seedlings on into 9cm pots, pinching out the growing tips when the plant is about 8cm tall to encourage bushier growth. Plant out as the weather starts to warm, hardening the plants off over 1-2 weeks before you do so. If you’re growing French lavender, wait until after the last frost before planting out.

Photography by

Jonathan Buckley

How to plant

If conditions are right and the soil is warm, you can plant these straight into your containers or the garden by following the instructions below. If weather conditions aren’t right (i.e., they are too cold or too wet) then you can pot them on into a 1 or 2 litre pot before planting.

Step 1

Prepare the planting area by forking over the soil.  Pick out any large stones and visible weeds as you go.

Step 2

Rake to level the soil, breaking up any large clumps. Try to create a fine, crumbly soil texture. The young plants roots will like this.

Step 3

Dig a generous hole with ample space around the rootball. Adding rootgrow into the bottom of the planting hole will help plants establish roots If your soil is clay, add grit to the bottom of the hole and mix in some sand and grit with the soil as you replace it.

Step 4

Place the plant in the hole so it sits at the same level as it was in its previous pot and firm the soil around it to anchor it. Fill the space around the plant with the displaced soil, and gently firm the soil with your hands. You should be able to tug gently on the leaves without the planting lifting out of the ground.

Step 5

Water well, and once it looks like all the water has been absorbed, water again with a really good amount of water (not a sprinkle). Do this every 5-7 days (if there has been no rain) to encourage roots to be drawn down deep into the ground, resulting in stronger plants.

Step 6

Remember that plants tend to look better in groups of three, five or seven, and allow 50-90cm between plants in borders. If you’re planting lavender as a hedge, then a spacing of 30cm will be ideal.

Photography by

Jonathan Buckley

Care guide

Watering

Lavender plants do not like to be wet, so water sparingly through their first summer. After that, plants in the ground should not need watering at all unless there is a severe drought. Plants in containers do need watering, but only in moderation. Less is generally more!

Fertilising

Lavender prefers poor soil, so avoid feeding.

Pruning

In late summer, after flowering, use shears or secateurs to remove spent flowers and around 2.5cm of leafy growth, being careful not to cut into the old wood. Established plants can also be tidied up with a light trim in early spring if necessary.

Deadheading

Deadhead regularly to encourage more flowers to form. Use secateurs to cut the stem just above the leaves.

Propagating

Lavender is easy to grow from cuttings. Between June and September, choose leafy, flower-free shoots from this year’s growth, pulling them gently away from the main stem so a thin strip of bark or a ‘heel’ is still attached. You’re aiming for the cuttings to be around 12-15cm in length. Place in a plastic bag immediately to prevent them drying out.

If there is no heel, then cut the stem with a sharp knife just below a leaf node. Dipping the cut stem into rooting hormone can encourage faster root formation.

Remove the lower leaves above the cut so there is a good stretch of clear stem.

Fill a container with peat-free potting compost mixed with 50 per cent perlite or grit and push in the cuttings around the edge of the pot, taking care that they don’t touch each other.

Water well and cover with a clear polythene bag, and move to a warm place out of direct sunlight. Remove the bag for 10-15 minutes twice a week for ventilation.

Monitor to ensure the soil stays moist (but not wet) and after around four to six weeks, gently try to lift a cutting. Any resistance shows that rooting has started. Remove the bag and leave to grow on until strong, healthy roots have formed, when the plants can be potted up individually.

Overwintering

English lavenders and their hybrids (Lavandula angustifolia and Lavendula x intermedia) are fully hardy and can remain in the ground over winter. Those in pots will benefit from being protected from the rain – move into the rainshadow of a wall or into a cold greenhouse if you can. French lavenders (Lavandula stoechas) are only half-hardy, so move them to a cool, bright and dry place such as a conservatory

Pests, diseases & common issues

Rosemary beetle

These shiny, striped beetles and their larvae feed on plants damaging the leaves. In most cases, they won’t cause significant damage but if they do, remove and dispose of them by hand.

Cuckoo spit

These globs of frothy liquid that appear around the stems of plants are the secretions of sap-sucking froghopper bugs. They are harmless and should give no cause for concern.

Sage and Ligurian leafhopper

These insects can cause a pale mottling of lavender leaves, though rarely severe enough to require any action.

Why are my lavender leaves turning yellow or brown?

This is most likely to be a sign of over-watering. Remember that lavender plants don’t like to sit in wet soil, so let the soil dry before watering again.

Why is my lavender dying or drooping?

Again, this is most likely to be a sign of over-watering. Established lavender plants need very little water to survive. Alternatively, your plants might need more sun or a larger pot.

Why is my lavender not flowering?

As above, your lavender might be over-watered, need more sun, or, if the leaves look healthy, it might have too much nitrogen (which promotes leafy growth rather than flowers). If this is the case, avoid adding feed or fertiliser.

Why is my lavender woody?

Lavender becomes woody when it is not pruned regularly, so keep on top of trimming to keep your plants in good shape.

Why are my lavender flowers not purple?

If your lavender flowers are pink or white, there’s no need to worry – these are just different varieties of the plant. If they are brown, then you might have a problem – most likely root rot caused by over watering.

Photography by

Jonathan Buckley

Frequently asked questions

Which lavender has the strongest scent?

Hybrid lavenders (Lavandula x intermedia) have high concentrations of essential oils and so a stronger scent. Lavenders ‘Mustead’ and ‘Hidcote’ also smell wonderful, and are grown commercially for their oil.
Which lavender is the hardiest?

Cultivars of Lavandula angustifolia and Lavandula x intermedia are the hardiest, able to withstand temperatures of -15C.
Are lavender plants toxic to cats and dogs?

Yes, lavender is considered toxic to cats and dogs if eaten in large quantities.
Will deer or rabbits eat lavender?

No, the strong scent of lavender generally deters deer and rabbits.
Is lavender evergreen?

Yes, lavender is evergreen, with silver or grey-green foliage year-round.
Are lavender and rosemary related?

Yes, lavender and rosemary are both members of the mint or lamiaceae family.
Is lavender edible?

Yes, lavender leaves and flowers are edible, with Lavandula angustifolia cultivars considered to be the best for culinary uses.
Is lavender perennial?

Yes, lavender is a perennial that will last for many years if grown well and pruned regularly. French lavenders are shorter-lived than English varieties.
Can I cut lavender back to the ground?

No, cutting back to the ground will kill your lavender plant. Instead, prune after flowering, removing about 2-3cm of leafy growth all around. If you need to cut back harder to regenerate an old plant, be sure to cut above leaf buds.
Can lavender grow in shade?

Some varieties will grow in shade but they won’t thrive or flower well. We’d suggest choosing other plants which are happy in shade.
What's the difference between French and English lavender?

So-called English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia and x intermedia) is hardier and longer-lived than French lavender (Lavandula stoechas) which is more sensitive to frost. French lavender is easy to identify by its tufts of upright petal-like bracts at the tips of the flower spikes.
How to dry lavender

Simply cut a bunch and hang upside down in a warm, dry place with good air circulation and out of direct sunlight.
What to grow with lavender

Lavender looks great planted en masse on its own; in rows of different varieties; or among cottage garden favourites including Alchemilla mollis and Geranium ‘Rozanne’. It’s also wonderful under roses and with Mexican fleabane (Erigeron karvinskianus), as you can see in our Lavender & Daisies collection.

How to cut and arrange lavender

Lavender is perfect for adding scent to bouquets and posies – cut stems for the vase when the lowest blossom opens. It also looks good dried and arranged with stems of other dried flowers including echinops, statice and helichrysums.

Common name	Lavender
Latin name	Lavender
Type	Shrub
Height	Compact varieties are about 45-60cm; taller varieties can reach 90cm.
TLC rating	Easy
Aspect	Full Sun
Planting position	Front of borders, hedges, containers
Suitable for pots	Yes
Good for pollinators	Yes
Good for cut flowers	Yes, and it's great as a dried flower too.