How to plant, grow & care for Salvias

e.g. ‘Ember’s Wish’, ‘Love and Wishes’, ‘Victoria White’, ‘Black and Blue’If you have ordered our plants for spring delivery these tender varieties will need acclimatising to the outside world (hardening off). They can then be planted out when all risk of frost is over, usually by the end of May. 

Plant in moist but well-drained soil in a sunny, sheltered spot and sprinkle mycorrhizal fungi (Rootgrow) into the base of the planting hole. You might want to add additional grit to the soil to ensure there is no waterlogging in the winter. For best effect plant in groups of three. During the season remove faded flower spikes to encourage further blooms and feed every two weeks. 

As these plants are not totally hardy it is best to leave well alone until the spring and then cut them down to the base, where they will shoot up again when the warm weather arrives. Many of these salvias are tuberous and over time they develop an underground energy source that strengthens their hardiness. It is also worth mulching over the crown with a thick layer of garden compost to give them extra protection during a hard frost. 

If they are planted in containers move them into a sheltered position out of the heavy winter rains. If you live in a very cold area you could try planting into containers that are sunk into the ground and then lifted before the cold wet weather strikes. To be totally sure of your plants returning in the spring take cuttings at the end of the summer and overwinter them in a frost-free place. 

E.g. 'Amethyst’, ‘Caradonna', 'Crystal Blue', ‘Ostfriesland’, 'Rose Marvel'

These salvias are much hardier than the tuberous or shrubby types, although they still hate getting waterlogged in the winter. So, when your plants arrive in the spring, choose a sunny well drained site and add some Rootgrow to the bottom of the planting hole. It is also worth adding some grit to ensure it drains really well.

Some salvia varieties will give you a second flush of flowers if you dead head the spent shoots. Others respond well to the “Chelsea chop” technique of cutting the foliage back in late May to encourage later flowering, so you can experiment with this once the plants are well established. Mulch around the plant each year with well-rotted organic matter to keep the soil fertile.

In subsequent years, pay particular attention to slugs and snails as the young leaves emerge in the spring. They can shoot back after one or two attacks but will give up if continuously grazed to ground level.

E.g. 'Amethyst Lips', 'Cherry Lips', 'Salmon Dance', 'Nachtvlinder', 'Jezebel', 'Cerro Potosi'

These sub-shrub salvias generally have a permanent woody structure, and some are even evergreen in mild conditions. Others will shoot again if the cold weather has knocked them back. 

To ensure the best chance of survival, find a particularly well-drained area in a sunny, sheltered spot and sprinkle mycorrhizal fungi (Rootgrow) into the base of the planting hole. For the best effect in the border, plant in groups of three or singly in pots. 

In cold, wet gardens these salvias might be best kept in large containers so that they can be brought in for the winter. But do ensure you repot and feed regularly as otherwise they soon get tired and fail to flower so well.

Deadhead through the summer to keep the flowers coming, do not prune back hard until the spring as this will encourage new growth to shoot before the risk of frost is over. When the warm weather arrives, cut back to a healthy pair of new shoots to keep the plant bushy. Protect young plants from late frosts and mulch annually with well-rotted manure or garden compost.