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There’s so much to love about squash. The sheer variety of shapes, colours and flavours means there are endless possibilities for your vegetable garden and your plate. They range from huge pumpkins to small ‘Patty Pan’ varieties, and the colours also vary from mottled greens and yellows to vibrant sunset shades. 

Written by: Sarah Raven

Last updated: 26th May 2021

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Sowing
Planting
Flowering
Spring
  • Sow seeds undercover ready to plant out once the risk of frost has passed.
Summer
  • Feed and water squash plants regularly to encourage fruit. 
  • Summer squash will be ready to harvest from July.
  • Mulch around plants to help with the moisture retention.
Autumn
  • Winter squash and pumpkins will be ready to harvest from late August.
Winter
  • Start planning out which squash you would like to sow in spring.

Squash thrive in moist, fertile soil. Add compost or well-rotted manure to enrich the soil and help retain moisture.

A sunny spot is essential for growing squash.

Seeds should be sown undercover in March, April and May. Seedlings can be planted out after the risk of frost has passed in late May, June and July.

Check instructions for each variety before sowing, but as a general rule, you can sow squash seed undercover in March, April and May. You can direct sow after the risk of frost has passed in May or June.

To sow undercover, sow 1-2 seeds to a 9cm (3½in) pot filled with peat-free compost. Push the flat seed on its side into the compost about 2½cm (1in) deep. 

For the best chance of germination, place somewhere warm with a minimum temperature of around 15ºC (59ºF). Thin out the weakest seedling.

If sowing directly outside, sow 2 or 3 seeds at a depth of 2½cm (1in). Once the seedlings are growing, thin out to leave the strongest one following the spacing indicated on the packet. 

watering

Keep squash well watered and avoid the plant becoming dry – avoid getting leaves wet while watering. Keep an eye on squash growing in containers as these will dry out faster than those in the ground. To improve moisture retention in the soil, mulch the surface well.

fertilising

Feed every fortnight with a high potash liquid fertiliser, such as Organic Tomato Fertiliser with Seaweed once the plants are flowering.

training

Winter squash and pumpkins need space to clamber and scramble, as well as strong supports. The most vigorous climbers will even welcome a trellis or arch. 

pruning 

The absolute key to a good harvest is to pinch out the growing tips of all the plant shoots in mid-August and to keep doing so. This stops plants putting on triffid-like, leafy growth and forces them to focus energy on the developing fruits.

Without pinching out, some just drop their flowers or immature fruit in favour of shooting out like a giant squid. Keep them contained and you'll have many more fruits to harvest.

harvesting

This depends very much on the variety. Summer squash can be harvested regularly from July onwards, like courgettes, while winter squash and pumpkins usually develop only a few, large fruit which should be left on the plant to mature until the end of summer.
 
Make sure to pick winter squash and pumpkins before the frosts arrive. And when harvesting, cut them with 10cm (4in) of stalk attached to the fruit.

Most varieties need to be cured for at least a week before you store them. Leave them on a sunny windowsill before storing somewhere dry and frost free. Then they can last for several weeks or even months.

powdery mildew

Squash can suffer from powdery mildew, which is a fungal disease that shows up as a white powdery coating on the foliage. 
Remove any affected leaves and try an organic solution such as homemade comfrey tonic to keep mildew at bay. Keep the soil moist and move plants to a cooler location if growing in containers. And remember to avoid getting leaves wet while watering.

why are my squash plant leaves turning yellow?

If the yellowing is severe, it could be a sign of verticillium wilt – a fungal disease that infects the plants from the roots. Signs include wilting leaves, yellowing leaves and a dieback. The fungal disease lives in the soil, so you need to remove the plant with any soil attached to the roots and dispose of it.

why are there white spots on my squash plant leaves?

A white, powdery coating usually indicates powdery mildew. 

why is my squash rotting on the plant?

Irregular and under watering can lead to blossom end rot, which is a calcium deficiency in the fruit and shows up as a black, flattened bottom on the fruit. Consistent watering will help ensure future fruits are healthy. 

If it’s not blossom end rot, it could be that the squash plant is too small and weak to support the full development of the fruit. It could also be a sign that the plant is stressed – ensure you water and feed your squash regularly.

  • Seeds should be sown undercover in March, April and May, and seedlings can be planted out after the risk of frost has passed in late May and June. You can also sow seed direct in May and June.

  • For butternut squash you can expect 5 or 6 fruits per plant through the growing season, for some larger squash and pumpkins you may only get 2 to 4.

  • Seeds should be sown undercover in March, April and May. Seedlings can be planted out after the risk of frost has passed in late May and June.

  • Sow squash seed at a depth of about 2½cm (1in) deep, with the seed sown vertically. Then plant out at the same level as they were in the pot.

  • Sow 1-2 seeds to a 9cm (3½in) pot and thin the weakest seedling. Ultimate spacing will depend on the variety of squash, but be mindful that some varieties have a trailing habit and their spread can reach up to 4.5m (15ft).

  • Yes, dead leaves can be removed from squash plants.

  • Consistent watering is key. Under watering can lead to various problems including blossom end rot, but over watering can lead to powdery mildew. 

  • Squash is an annual – sow new seed each year

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